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                    "New York has $40 cheese pizza and a $28 corn dog, but are we ready for a $60 loaf of bread?\n\n\n\nThe answer would seem to be yes. Rye bakery opened last week at\u00a0285 Lafayette Street with $60 loaves of rye bread coming out of the oven. On two visits, I watched curious customers snatch up loaf after\u00a0loaf.\u00a0\n\n\n\nRye\u2019s the work of Austrian-born owner Martin Auer. The clean-lined, 3,000 square-foot storefront could be mistaken for a modern furniture showroom. Instead, it\u2019s a bakery that takes breadmaking to a new level of artisanal craftsmanship \u2014 and time-consuming patience.\n\n\n\nSteve Cuozzo grabs a pricey loaf at RYE by Martin Auer in Nolita. Emmy Park for NY Post\n\n\n\nThe tasteful storefront looks more modern furniture store than bakery.  Emmy Park for NY Post\n\n\n\nAuer\u2019s hand-shaped, round and\u00a0low-rise 3.3-pound loaf is neither a publicity stunt nor another exercise in culinary conspicuous-consumption. Rather, it\u2019s proof that while we don\u2019t live by bread alone, life\u2019s better when the bread\u2019s great. \n\n\n\n\n\n\nAt first glance, the flat-topped loaf resembles\u00a0a holiday pie, its unscored crust a mound of mottled brown and white.\n\n\n\nThe bread is made\u00a0from\u00a0nothing but salt, water and imported organic rye flour grown in what Auer calls \u201cancestral soil.\u201d Unlike sourdough products at other high-end Big Apple bakeries such as Breads Bakery and Ole & Steen, there are no sugar, seeds or spices.\n\n\n\nThe only other \u201cingredient,\u201d as Auer calls it, is time.\u00a0 He should know as the scion of an Austrian family that\u2019s been baking acclaimed loaves for four generations. \n\n\n\nEach loaf is naturally fermented for 24 hours before it\u2019s baked, yielding a flavor complexion that\u2019s slightly nutty, slightly malty and almost-but-not-quite sweet. \n\n\n\nThe sourdough bread is moist on the palate\u00a0when it comes out of the oven, so it \u201crests\u201d on wooden racks for at least eight hours before\u00a0sale. \n\n\n\nThe bread is made from just a handful of ingredients.  Emmy Park for NY Post\n\n\n\n\u201cOtherwise it\u2019s a challenge to slice it,\u201d said Tim Auer, Martin\u2019s son, who runs the business with him. It will stay fresh at home for six days, he said.\n\n\n\nThe crust is firm but not crunchy. It\u2019s chewy beneath the \u00a0surface \u2014\u00a0a quality I found appealing but which some tasters in our office called \u201cgummy.\u201d It\u2019s a matter of taste but nobody can deny the care and attention that went\u00a0into it.\n\n\n\nIf you take the plunge on a whole loaf, ask them to slice it first. \u201cYou need a really good bread knife which not everyone has,\u201d Tim Auer said with a chuckle.\n\n\n\nMartin Auer (right) and his son, Tim, are behind the new bakery.  Emmy Park for NY Post\n\n\n\nThe Auers know that $60 is a heavy lift. So they offer it in quarter- and half-loaf sizes for $15 or $30. Customers can also sample the bread by ordering a single slice topped with a choice of fourteen sweet or savory toppings, priced\u00a0from\u00a0$6 for butter and chives to $14 for \u201croe on rye.\u201d \n\n\n\n\u201cIt\u2019s the playful part of our menu,\u201d Tim said. \u201cWe want to show what\u2019s possible with rye.\u201d \u00a0\n\n\n\n\nOne enchanting option is liptauer ($8), a creamy Austrian cheese spread tinted with paprika and studded with chives.\n\n\n\nIf you don\u2019t want to spring for a whole loaf, you can grab a slice with various toppings.  Emmy Park for NY Post\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\nI enjoyed peanut butter and jelly ($6) as well, even after Auer told me the P.B. is Skippy \u2014 my least favorite brand. It somehow works well paired with Staud\u2019s jam, a Viennese brand. (Tim said that after we discussed it, they decided to include the exact source of each item on the menu.)\n\n\n\nBut how about pastrami? We\u2019re in New York, after all.\n\n\n\n\u201cWe\u2019re thinking about it,\u201d Tim said with a \u201cwry\u201d chuckle."
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